Just a thought on surfing ….

For the past couple of weeks I have been talking with very close friends and family about what my main goals in life are. Among some of these goals I found one that I feel like sharing with all of you.

I started surfing when I was about 11 years old in Lima, Peru. To be more exact in Punta Negra about 45 km south of the capital city of Lima. The beach was known for some powerful waves breaking right on the shore. Waves here were really good especially for those who liked to get barrels or were body boarding.

A very good friend of mine, German Puente, invited me over to his house to let me try his body board for the first time - he was selling it. I thought that would be a good opportunity for me to try out surfing. After all I had been listening to him and another close friend (Roberto Balarezo - El Bot) talk non-stop and extremely stoked about surfing. They would spend 10 to 15 minutes and sometimes even longer talking about the shape of that one wave, the feeling and what they did on it. I was always curious about the feeling and would listen carefully to their stories. 

The morning of my initiation, I could hear the waves exploding onto the sand of the shore. German saw my face and he told me not to worry it was not too big and that I would be just fine. I heard him and of course pretended to be just fine. I tried to hide my nervousness and remain cool all the way to the beach. What I saw marked me for the rest of my life. The biggest waves I had ever seen in the ocean – and I was about to go in and try to surf them for the first time. I had no idea what was yet to come.

German told me how to use the fins on my feet and how to hold on to the bodyboard. He had done this so many times already but I kept asking for him to explain one more time. These waves were at least 1.5 to 2 meters high. The waves were pounding merciless on the sand and I was supposed to right there somewhere between the wave and the sand…

German Puente surfing Explosivos. Image by Erik Henriod

 Going in wasn’t too hard because the adrenaline that started flowing through my veins gave me enough strength and courage to paddle out quickly in between sets. It took me a very long time to finally kick and paddle hard enough to go down one of this slick, clean and beautiful dark green wall of water. It was an endless drop. Time stopped. My breathing stopped. Everything around me had stopped and it was only the wave and I. The adrenaline rush was exceptionally strong. My level of consciousness was at its maximum capacity. All this took place while I was getting covered over my head by a beautiful water curtain. It turned from dark and menacing into a very nice and translucent light green. Not too long afterwards I saw the light at the end of the barrel disappear. That is when it hit me. I was about to find out why they call this surf spot ‘Explosives’ or ‘Explosivos’. I had no time to breathe, the barrel closed up and I had time to look once more at this beautiful scenery before it would disappear forever. Truth is I felt my body getting pulled into all directions at the same time while getting smashed over and over again against the sandy bottom of the beach. Truth is I almost drowned.

German Puente surfing Explosivos. Image by Miguel Rodriguez

 When I finally came out and got some fresh air I dragged myself onto the shore and just laid on the sand. My mind tried to understand how many things and feelings had taken place in such a small amount of time. I could not understand how I had felt so terribly afraid and yet in total ecstasy about dropping that wave and getting barreled. It was the feeling that only a surfer knows. It got into me and that was it. I was alive now. I did not get back in the water that day. But ever since that day in Punta Negra with my brother German Puente my life changed big time. 

German Puente surfing Explosivos. Image by Erik Henriod

In many different instances of my life surf has been my best friend and has helped me to get through so many things. I am who I am in part thanks to surfing. It changed my life forever once back home. When I came to Canada 6 years ago, I never thought about how much it would actually hurt to stop surfing. I only realized 2 years ago that Surf was a big part of my life. When I finally found surf in the Great Lakes after 3 long years of searching I knew I had found my sanity again. The day I surfed The Cove with Larry Cavero I knew I had found part of my life again in the Great Lakes and gained my best friend and surf companion in Canada! I still remember the day I came back home and told my mum with a big smile on my face: “This is by far my best day in Canada!” Even today, my life keeps changing for better thanks to Surfing. Every day I go out surfing I meet great people. The day I surfed Kincardine for the very first time was even better than any other day before. I met during an early morning a very sweet, down to earth and strikingly brilliant woman. Stoked on life and surf, Helen Filion has changed my life in a way that I could have never thought even possible. I didn’t think that surf could be this great. It has given me happiness inside and outside of the water. Every time, surf provides me with something even better that helps me complete my life and for that I am a very happy person and always proud of what I do.

German Puente surfing Chilca - Image by Erik Henriod

Now…….You must be wondering what one of my main goals in life is. After all, I started this article saying I would share it with all of you. Well, here it is. I want to share the stoke, happiness and amazing opportunities life and surf have given me with everyone. It doesn’t matter where you are from, who you are, what do you belief or what is your experience level in surf. If you are slightly interested in learning how to surf or where to go in the Great Lakes to surf contact me please and I promise I will at least share with you all that I know about surfing. I will do this only so that you can start surfing as soon as possible. My life changed for good three times already thanks to surfing. I am convinced that your life will change for good as well once you get hooked on it!

Now if you excuse me, I have to go wax my board and get ready for a great surf trip with Larry C, Elias R. and Tim D. tomorrow early in the morning…. Have a good one and I hope you are catching some waves tomorrow and if you don’t surf yet, now you know you are missing out!

Cheers!

Forecast for this Tuesday....it is looking insane!!!